McLeod Ganj sits on the south-western edge of the Himalayas, about 10 hours north of Delhi by bus. It is the headquarters of the Tibetan government in exile and the residence of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama. I had been looking forward to heading up to McLeod for a couple months, and though I knew it would be cold this time of year, I seized the opportunity to go for a couple of days while there was nothing happening in Delhi.
After an overnight bus to Dharamsala (just below McLeod Ganj), we arrived well before schedule and were dumped at 4:30 am on the side of the road. Taking a taxi up to town with a girl I had met on the bus, there was no movement, no light, and everything was blanketed in snow. We stood in the tiny, dark, icy "town square" deserted with our packs, wondering what our next move could possibly be. We had little choice but to get out a flashlight and start carefully picking our way down the narrow lane, hoping to come upon a guesthouse whose door we could bang on at 5 am. We were incredibly lucky- down the lane, in the dark, we ran into a couple who had been on the bus with us, and they owned a guesthouse! Not only that, but they happened to be the proprietors of the guesthouse I had booked for my trip earlier in the week! Upon arriving at the guesthouse, we were informed that the entire town was without electricity, and even the road up had been completely blocked until the day before, due to a snowstorm. Our guesthouse-saviors gave me four heavy blankets, and at 5:30 am I tried to burrow under them sufficiently enough to sleep for a couple of hours.
Again- not my best planned trip! The next morning there was still no electricity leading to not a few problems- no heat, no hot water, nothing open, limited and scarce food (there had been no deliveries either due to the road blocks). After a massive struggle to get out of my blanket fort, I made it outside to discover that things were quite bearable in the sun, walking around. Ice began to melt and people started coming out. I trekked several kilometers down the mountain to the secretariat, the government compound. It's amazing to think (and see) how an entire exiled government can set up shop in the small, previously backwaters, Indian mountain town. I returned to the town to discover the return of electricity (sporadic). My guest house was still without, so I moved to their sister property, down a steep, icy path below the main road. It was spectacular! The whole first day I had been debating about leaving early, but when I arrived at the Sidharth guesthouse, there was no thought of leaving. I saw the modest but homey and comfortable room and then THE VIEW, and I knew I could stick out the cold for this (electric heating of any sort was still nonexistent). We were perched on the mountainside gazing across at a panorama of snow-covered mountains; breathtaking and truly peaceful. I learned the art of cocooning with my blankets, and after a much longer and warmer night's sleep, I awoke refreshed.
I went to the Tsuglagkhang Complex, which includes the official residence of the Dalai Lama, the Kalachakra Temple, and the Tsuglagkhang Temple, and then checked out the Tibetan Museum before cozying up to hot tea and the BEST momos (dumplings) I have ever had. That day and the next I did a lot of wandering, slipping, and sliding about, admiring the local handicrafts and generally enjoying and being appreciative of where I was. Though it was freezing, I hadn't showered for days, hadn't even changed my clothes (the first day I put on every item I had and hadn't had the courage to peel off one layer since), I was really sad to leave. It was so beautiful, peaceful, friendly; seeing the monks ambling about, feeling the sun warm my numb toes as I scrambled through the slush, sitting under a giant blanket with hot tea- it was full of simple joys and few needs. It's a place I definitely feel the need to return to, and not just for the momos. Having read the Dalai Lama's autobiography and being there, it's hard not become suddenly impassioned for the Tibetan cause. The history of the people and their struggle is astounding, and should make everyone want to work towards a free Tibet. I look forward to returning to McLeod Ganj, hopefully in warmer weather and when I can dedicate time to volunteering with the community. Though the trip may not have been entirely what I expected, it turned out to be just what I needed.
After an overnight bus to Dharamsala (just below McLeod Ganj), we arrived well before schedule and were dumped at 4:30 am on the side of the road. Taking a taxi up to town with a girl I had met on the bus, there was no movement, no light, and everything was blanketed in snow. We stood in the tiny, dark, icy "town square" deserted with our packs, wondering what our next move could possibly be. We had little choice but to get out a flashlight and start carefully picking our way down the narrow lane, hoping to come upon a guesthouse whose door we could bang on at 5 am. We were incredibly lucky- down the lane, in the dark, we ran into a couple who had been on the bus with us, and they owned a guesthouse! Not only that, but they happened to be the proprietors of the guesthouse I had booked for my trip earlier in the week! Upon arriving at the guesthouse, we were informed that the entire town was without electricity, and even the road up had been completely blocked until the day before, due to a snowstorm. Our guesthouse-saviors gave me four heavy blankets, and at 5:30 am I tried to burrow under them sufficiently enough to sleep for a couple of hours.
Again- not my best planned trip! The next morning there was still no electricity leading to not a few problems- no heat, no hot water, nothing open, limited and scarce food (there had been no deliveries either due to the road blocks). After a massive struggle to get out of my blanket fort, I made it outside to discover that things were quite bearable in the sun, walking around. Ice began to melt and people started coming out. I trekked several kilometers down the mountain to the secretariat, the government compound. It's amazing to think (and see) how an entire exiled government can set up shop in the small, previously backwaters, Indian mountain town. I returned to the town to discover the return of electricity (sporadic). My guest house was still without, so I moved to their sister property, down a steep, icy path below the main road. It was spectacular! The whole first day I had been debating about leaving early, but when I arrived at the Sidharth guesthouse, there was no thought of leaving. I saw the modest but homey and comfortable room and then THE VIEW, and I knew I could stick out the cold for this (electric heating of any sort was still nonexistent). We were perched on the mountainside gazing across at a panorama of snow-covered mountains; breathtaking and truly peaceful. I learned the art of cocooning with my blankets, and after a much longer and warmer night's sleep, I awoke refreshed.
I went to the Tsuglagkhang Complex, which includes the official residence of the Dalai Lama, the Kalachakra Temple, and the Tsuglagkhang Temple, and then checked out the Tibetan Museum before cozying up to hot tea and the BEST momos (dumplings) I have ever had. That day and the next I did a lot of wandering, slipping, and sliding about, admiring the local handicrafts and generally enjoying and being appreciative of where I was. Though it was freezing, I hadn't showered for days, hadn't even changed my clothes (the first day I put on every item I had and hadn't had the courage to peel off one layer since), I was really sad to leave. It was so beautiful, peaceful, friendly; seeing the monks ambling about, feeling the sun warm my numb toes as I scrambled through the slush, sitting under a giant blanket with hot tea- it was full of simple joys and few needs. It's a place I definitely feel the need to return to, and not just for the momos. Having read the Dalai Lama's autobiography and being there, it's hard not become suddenly impassioned for the Tibetan cause. The history of the people and their struggle is astounding, and should make everyone want to work towards a free Tibet. I look forward to returning to McLeod Ganj, hopefully in warmer weather and when I can dedicate time to volunteering with the community. Though the trip may not have been entirely what I expected, it turned out to be just what I needed.
View from my room!
The Tibetan Library
Part of the Secretariat
Peace flags are everywhere- strung along trails, over houses and roads, and in restaurants
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