our weekend getaway!

     This past weekend John and I made our first trip out of the city, eager and curious.  We were going on the trip we booked through the tout/"travel agent"- the original trip was to go to Agra where the Taj Mahal is, and then to go to Ranthambore where there is a wildlife reserve.  Unfortunately, because of rains, we could not go to Ranthambore, so we were rerouted to Jaipur- the "pink city," called so because the old city was painted pink in 1876 to welcome King Edward VII.  There we could explore the eastern front of Rajasthan and ride elephants into the Amber Fort, built in 1592.

     The Taj Mahal was, of course, stunning.  We got up at an unholy hour on Saturday morning after arriving in Agra late Friday night, and headed to the site.  The Taj Mahal was built as a memorial by Shah Jahan for his wife in 1631.  Monkeys abounded and we took a tour into the grounds, walking around, staring in awe, mouths agape, for a couple of hours before the long drive to Jaipur.  One lesson, I think it is safe to say, that we learned on this trip is that whenever possible, do not rely on roads to reach your destination.  By car or by bus, you are in for a very bumpy and often harrowing ride.  Your life is not only in the hands of your driver, but also those of the hundreds or thousands of other drivers who have all helped earn India's reputation for having the most madcap driving in the world.  In addition, you can be cruising along, smooth and steady, one minute and then inching over rubble in a tangle of traffic and camel-drawn carts the next.

     Needless to say, we made it to Jaipur and spent the afternoon wandering around the old city.  Another tangle of traffic, so to speak, but this one made up of people and stalls full of colorful wares.  Jaipur, in addition to selling the usual eclectic mix of goods, is also known for its camel-leather shoes and tie-dyed fabrics.  We had some delicious lassis and chaat and topped off our long day with veg thali and giant, cold Kingfisher beers.*

     Sunday morning, bright and early once again, we headed to Amber Fort outside of Jaipur, which was the ancient capital of the then-Jaipur state.  The surrounding hills are lined with battlements, and it's really quite magnificent.  The fort is huge and unbelievably well-maintained.  The view was incredible as we walked along the parapets, and in addition to riding elephants up to the fort (amazing), there were also snake charmers!  (solely for us tourists, of course, but we gladly gave them our money after having the bejeezus scared out of us... or me at least.)

     After, we headed home to good ol' Delhi, back to our apartment to relax and prepare for the week.  We had an amazing weekend, bumpy though it was at times.  As we're starting to settle in to a "groove" here (for lack of a better word), things seem to become more comfortable and yet more exciting.  There are fresh things on the docket and I'm looking forward to sharing them soon!

*
  -lassis- cold yogurt drink, served either sweet or salty
  -chaat- savory Indian snacks
  -veg thali- combination meal of all different Indian dishes and condiments served in a 
   compartmentalized tray with roti or naan and rice- my favorite!

     

first glimpse of the taj mahal! 

just hanging out

they became fast friends.

  i can assure you, those snakes are real!

The wave of Delhi

     Well- it's been almost 2 weeks in Delhi, which already seems impossible to believe because I do feel like we just got here yesterday.  I have to admit- the jury was still out on Delhi last week, but this past weekend combined with bits and pieces of light and wonder over the last week have started giving me reason to hold judgement, and maybe even really like it here.

     Delhi, it seems so far in my brief period here, is a city of juxtapositions.  Everywhere there are vast, impenetrable swathes of foliage breaking up the concrete jungle of apartment blocks and crumbling outdoor shopping areas.  For every concrete patio or porch (and they are all concrete) there are 20 potted plants spilling over the sides.  There are SUVs and luxury cars racing down roads past men leading donkeys and oxen.  The smells- a whole block of stalls all making fresh flower necklaces and decorative strands with intoxicating floral perfumes, and you haven't made it 3 steps from the last flower stand before your eyes start to water with the most putrid, ripe, sewage smell imaginable.  There are 15th century tombs scattered across grounds that abut modern office parks.  And then, most shocking to the sight, even if you've been prepared for it or are well aware of the disparity across a country like India, there are the beautiful, upper-class, gated neighborhoods and malls unrivaled in opulence, all with slums tumbling out from their edges.

     The differences are stark and at times beautiful and at times disturbing.  The thing that strikes me as amazing, though, is how all of these people, from the highest income bracket to those without an income at all, all live next to each other, without the kind of gradual segregation seen in many other places.  There are strict lines of demarcation in many places, often made with high fences and armed security guards, but everyone is living in and around each other, many trying to make a buck off the other, forced to coexist with all the peoples the city supports, not just those in their socio-economic group.  Yes, the upper-echelon can confine themselves to spacious vehicles, gated communities, and air-conditioned offices, but they need only look out their window at any given time to see the other half- or in this case the majority.

     On another note- we had a great weekend!  On saturday we went to the concentric circle circus known as Connaught Place.  It's the colonial, commercial centre with trinket bazaars radiating out from several rings of stores, banks, and way too many people.  We did have an incredible lunch of dosas and thalis at a little place called Sagar Ratna.  From here one could take 2 perspectives of our day- one could say that we rode the wave of Delhi, coming home feeling productive, charged, and excited, even if a little lighter in the pockets.  Another could say we were taken by a string of touts- men who target tourists for business in an importunate yet sneaky manner.  Personally, I prefer the first view.
     We had been planning on going to the Taj Mahal next weekend, and after an amiable young man struck up a conversation with us at lunch, we found ourselves in a tourist office, talking transportation and lodging specifics, and then booking a weekend trip to Agra, where the Taj Mahal is, and to Ranthambore for a tiger safari.  From there we thought we'd grab a brew to cool off and discuss our exciting if not impulsive purchase.  However, being led out of the tourist office by a tiny Indian man, chatting about our upcoming trip, we found ourselves in a tuk tuk to the Craft Council of India, being handed free, albeit warm, beers and shown a variety of handmade luxury items from all over the country.  
      Now, do I think that amiable young man at lunch was a tout, and that we may have been cajoled into an immediate purchase and slightly over-paid for our hastiness and affability?  Do I think that the tiny Indian man leading us out of the office got a commission on every tourist he sent to the Craft Council and called ahead to tell them we were expecting beer because that is what he promised us as he ushered us into the tuk tuk?  Absolutely.  Do I regret these decisions?  Of course not! Well, not yet at least.  Regardless of motives or our own role as "tourists" in these situations, we came away from a fun-filled day with an amazing trip planned that I am oh-so-looking forward to, and a Kashmiri rug!  (I'll also have to admit that I'm the persistent sellers best target when it comes to textiles and crafts- I wear down like a cheap rug.  Not to be confused with the very fabulous, colorful, handmade, Kashmiri rug I bought from the persistent seller...)  At any rate, we are headed on an adventure next weekend and I simply cannot wait, regardless of what is in store!
     On Sunday we went to the Red Fort- a massive structure built in the 1600s, large and mightily impressive.  It's located in Old Delhi, a hectic spectacle with throngs of people, rickshaws, food carts, and markets.

     After a great weekend, I am looking forward to the week- going to museums, a yoga class, reading, trying to find my routine here.  As we become acclimated to this city, everything that it has to offer, the things that may be new, different, and at times very confusing, I am finding the delight in my surroundings and am cherishing this time while I learn to cherish this city and all that is has to offer.  

the ladies gathering in the park

chandni chowk- old delhi

john and the red fort

the ladies often gather in groups to stretch and exercise in a circle together

the woman walking is Saroj- one of the first to chat me up in the park

Greetings from Delhi!

Hello friends and family!  I've been one week in Delhi so far and it seems that there is a lot and yet very little to report.  The weekend was spent settling in to our new apartment in sector C, pocket 6, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi.  Exploring has proved a touch difficult because Delhi is HUGE!  And very spread out.  But, never fear, the ubiquitous tuk-tuk is here!  Luckily the little golf-cart-like vehicles are everywhere are charge about half what cars do.  The city is hot, heavy, stark, beautiful, sprawling, green, crowded, dense, lush, and desolate.  Somehow all at the same time.  A difficult city to describe, I guess, but hopefully the pictures will give some idea...

On Saturday, John's boss from Bangkok was in town and took us to Kahn Market- a very crowded and dense open-air mall of sorts (nothing like the summit, louisville-ians...) where there were book shops and cafes and a bizarre eclectic mix of other goods on sale, some more legitimate than others.  It is one of the nicer markets, however, and even includes a branch of FabIndia- an amazing company that links craft-based, rural producers to urban markets.  The products are beautiful and all made from traditional techniques and skills.  I got some delicious soaps and my very first kurta!  Check them out! 

After the market, we went to the Lodi Gardens and then to a Tibetan photography exhibit at the India International Centre.  We dined on Punjabi food and then consumed the worse alcoholic/food concoction I've ever experienced- a green vodka shot poured into the top of a hollow fried dough ball filled with spicy legumes.  Note to self- there's a reason why we "shoot" shots and don't eat them.  (Unless of course they are the dark sweet nectar from the home-state wrapped in delicious chocolate, aka- bourbon balls, *sigh*). 

While John has been slaving away at his new job, I've tried to explore the surrounding area a bit.  One of the downsides of where we are located is that the response from anyone to the question, "where do we get/do _____" is, "the mall!"  So I'm trying to look "outside the mall" one might say.  There is a place called Hauz Khas Village, a tiny neighborhood that has Delhi's burgeoning art scene, some very chic boutiques, and even a slow food restaurant!  This weekend will hopefully lead us even further into the depths of the city, finding our way, bit by bit,  poco a poco.

My favorite thing so far here is a park in our neighborhood.  It is a fair sized park and, unlike the insane, thick, greenery that is everywhere else (trees growing in the middle of streets in some places!) the park is very manicured with a track around it, many benches, and a fountain in the middle.  And every day, at 6:00pm, every person in the neighborhood goes to the park to meet, power walk, relax, play, and enjoy the first breeze of the day that the late hour brings.

And speaking of, that bewitching hour is almost upon me, so I must scuttle to the park to resume my many chats with elder, sari-wearing, Indian women of Vasant Kunj- my new education! 

More to come soon!
xoxo