Tuesday 20 December 2011

Too long gone...

     It's been a while since my last update, and quite a bit has happened, though here I will be brief.  After my last post, John and I went up to Rishikesh together.  It is about 7 hours north, on the Ganges River.  Rishikesh is a small town, but considers itself the "yoga capitol of the world."  It's surrounded by forested hills and chock-full of ashrams.  John spent one evening there with me, and we went to the Parmarth Niketan Ashram for the evening ganga aarti- a daily religious ceremony at sunset with singing and chanting on the bank of the river.  After, people light wicks dipped in ghee and set them afloat on the river as an offering.  Rishikesh was also crowded backpackers, though almost in a refreshing way.  The busy bazaars, good food, nature, and general laid-back/spiritual feeling made it a place we will certainly travel back to.

so many monkeys!




Shiva

John with his offering to cast down the river


After John left Rishikesh, I travelled 10 km north of town and began my week-long stay at the Phool-Chatti Ashram.  Phool-Chatti is a simple but beautiful, small ashram located at the foot of the Himalayas, where the Ganges leaves the mountains.  It's the last ashram a pilgrim will pass before heading up into the mountains known as "the gods' land."  My experience there, as one might imagine, was a deeply personal one, and I would really love to go back in the spring.  To give an idea of my time there, each day we woke up at 5:30 am for morning meditation, then chanting, followed by pranayama (cleansing through breath), then asana yoga, then breakfast.  After breakfast we practiced karmic yoga, then had a 2 hour meditative walk, then lunch. After lunch, we were alloted a bit of free time before the daily lecture/discussion, and then more asana yoga, after which there was the temple pooja, sacred singing, dinner, then evening meditation, then bed.  All of the day, with the exception of the lecture/discussion, was in silence.  It was a full day, in more ways than one; more than anything I felt lucky to be there and to be able to have the experience.





Several days after I returned from Rishikesh, I got to go home for 2 whole weeks!  I needed to alter the status of my visa, so home I flew and spent some much-needed family time.  Since I've been back in Delhi, we've been counting down the days until our epic trip to the south!  We've had some great nights in the meantime, including going to a fashion show at the Leela Palace, and to a traditional wedding of one of John's coworkers.  We went to hear qawwali singers perform devotional songs at the Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah- an Islamic holy shrine, and even celebrated a bit of Christmas!  (There is a surprising amount of Christmas cheer here in Delhi!)


Hazrat Nizam-ud-din Dargah- Sufi shrine

qawwali singers



Delhi Santas!



Tomorrow night, we head out on a 34 hour train ride south- we'll be gone for 2 glorious weeks exploring the corners of Mysore, Ooty, and the Kerala coast!  Namaste till the new year!